favorite references

  • Elsebeth Gynther: Easy Style: Sewing the New Classics

    Elsebeth Gynther: Easy Style: Sewing the New Classics
    A fabulous book if you have the urge to create your own clothing designs. Basic patterns are provided, along with countless variations in sketches and photos. In addition to raglan and set-in-sleeve tops, pants, and skirts, there are pocket patterns, hats, and dozens of collars. There is a lot of basic sewing information, and there are many garments presented with step-by-step instructions, but this book is especially valuable because it gets you thinking about design possibilities. (btw the image is incorrect--it's the cover of an american knock-off on the same theme. The original is a paperback in yellow). (*****)

  • Nina Ericson: Klader:Creating Fantastic Clothes
    Great ideas for creating simple clothing. Most have very simple construction; the appeal is in using unusual materials to convey personal style. There are patterns for blouses, skirts, and coats, but for me the inspiring photos of real people are the true charm of this book. (****)
  • Verity Wilson: Dress in Detail from Around the World

    Verity Wilson: Dress in Detail from Around the World
    An inspirational feast for lovers of clothing, cloth and embellishment. Replete with detailed line drawings and sumptuous full-color photographs of garments from all times and places: Palestinan dresses, Indian trousers, Korean jackets, Russian coats (of salmon skin!), African tunics. The photos provide endless ideas for ornamentation, the drawings show every seamline as if to cry “recreate this!”. I just found this book-- it was love at first browse. (*****)

  • Madelyn van der Hoogt: The Complete Book of Drafting for Handweavers

    Madelyn van der Hoogt: The Complete Book of Drafting for Handweavers
    With my imagination in a very advanced yoga pose, I could conceive of a weaver who didn't need this book. Maybe if you did only plain weave, or only tapestry, you'd never have reason to pick up this volume. Or of course you might be a natural genius. The rest of us occasionally need some help, and this is where to find it. Essential. (*****)

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March 08, 2005

burda rocks

It's a been a bit stressful lately and one thing I adore about magazine subscriptions is that I forget I have them, and then I am surprised when they show up in my mailbox. If they are good magazines, it feels as good as finding money on the sidewalk. Burda showed up in my mailbox last week, bringing great happiness. Two days later, two more Burda magazines! Petites and Easy. I like the new format of the Easy magazine. There are some must have's in there. Burda remarks and queries:

--bouclé is in. Weavers! Bouclé is IN! get the looms busy. This is one of the few style trends where handwoven won't look out of place. Of course, my style is hardly the sweet little suit type. Still, it's fun to think about designing a handwoven bouclé to be made up into a charming jacket and skirt.
--Surplice dresses, great. With flowery designs and slightly raised waists. My hesitation is is length-- how old can you truly be and get away with wearing a flowery ruffly skirt above the knee? Think carefully before cutting.
--Long coats. (Already in petite sizes, so I don't have to alter the pattern! Hooray!) Would be a very useful thing, whether it's made in khaki or brocade. I think that's one pattern I'll definitely have to trace off.
--and the pleated skirt, three big box pleats in front and back. Another must have. One thing I love is seeing the same design made up in different fabrics. In this case, poplin, floral print, and silk dupioni. The silk wouldn't do for everyday wear in my life, but there are plenty of fun fabrics that could be imposed on this design.

I got some new books today: the Dover reprints of pages from Sear's catalogs. There are many books in the series, I think it goes all the way up to the '70's now, but I got the four which cover from 1909 to 1949. It's fascinating. I love references like this, because they answer questions which sometimes can't be illuminated any other way. Such as what did they really wear under those skirts? How did men's suitcoats change? (I always find the changes in men's clothing very subtle and hard to follow). What were normal clothes like: were there wooly sweaters, long underwear, pants for gardening, galoshes, overalls? I've only had a chance to glance through, but I anticipate pleasureable hours of investigation.

Part of the reason I got those books is that I'm in search of a certain kind of clothing silhouette or era and I don't know exactly where it is. It isn't flapper style; it's more curvaceous, but might still include cloche hats. I think it's either just before or just after flappers, and I'm hoping these reprints will help me determine it more precisely. (Why am I looking for this period of dress? Because.)

Big Blue is still in process. Not forgotten, but progressing rather slowly.

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